I recently took a trip to Nicaragua with our Director of Coffee; Phil Beattie and Dillanos' Vice President; Keith Hayward. Here is a Berdahedda version of Phil's update of our time there. Enjoy!
Greetings from Nicaragua!It has been a great time here at Let’s Talk Coffee in Montelimar, Nicaragua. It is extremely hot and humid here, the temperature and humidity are in the upper 90’s. The meetings have been going very good and the educational sessions have been top notch. The lectures have been a good mix of content that is applicable both to the roasters as well as to the coffee producers who make up the vast majority of the over 300 people attending.
Sustainable Harvest’s staff always does an amazing job of putting together an action packed weekend full of opportunities for networking, learning, and of course...talking coffee.We have seen presentations on subjects such as the history of espresso, agro-economics, coffee and your health, and traceability and technology in coffee. But, as in past years, the real value of Let’s Talk Coffee comes not from the lectures but from the opportunity to meet with producers, exporters, and non-profits from around the globe. This event always presents the best opportunity to get the pulse of the industry from a global perspective.On day one of the event David, Keith and I met with representatives of Kanyovu who made the long trip from Tanzania to Nicaragua to meet with us and discuss the successes and challenges of the past year. Because of cultural situations and the size of the cooperative in Kanyovu it has been difficult to find the path to the next level, but Sustainable Harvest’s staffers continue to make steady progress towards higher quality and traceability. The successes have been huge over the past years with huge jumps in cup score and consistency of the coffee. One challenge that we are addressing this year with the Kanyovu coffee is the rapid aging of the coffee do to fluctuations of temperature and humidity during the long journey that the coffee takes from eastern Tanzania to Seattle.
The long journey takes the coffee across the arid central area of Tanzania where temperatures soar well above 100 degrees inside of the container, then once loaded onto a boat in Dar es Salaam (which may take weeks) the coffee travels South around the horn of Africa where temperatures can drop to nearly freezing. Finally the coffee arrives in New York and makes the long railroad trip to Seattle. The extreme journey puts stress on the beans that begins to show in the flavor after around 8 to 10 months. This year in order to extend the life of the green coffee we are having the burlap sacks lined with a material called grain-pro. This material, that was developed to maintain the integrity of grains, is breathable but maintains a constant humidity and reduces the fluctuations of temperature within the bag. Studies have shown this lining to be very effective and we can’t wait to see how it works for us.We also met with a group of indigenous farmers from Colombia that are members of a cooperative called Tierradentro which translated means “the deep land” as in deep in the jungle. I cupped this coffee a few weeks ago at the Sustainable Harvest offices in Portland and was immediately impressed with the This group of 280 indigenous farmers grow a really spectacular organic coffee on the border of the Cauca and Huila regions in southern Colombia. They have done an amazing job of maintaining the integrity of their culture while integrating modern technology to trace each bag back to the individual farmer. This could be a great addition to the One Harvest line of coffees.
On day two we met with the remainder of our One Harvest producers, starting with the Chacons from Las Lajas. As usual, the meeting with the Chacons was a lovefest. The main focus of this meeting was planning for an upcoming trip in the beginning of January. We are going to be bringing a small group of our customers to Costa Rica to visit the farm there. They will spend some time harvesting coffee, touring the farm, visiting the beneficio (wet mill) and we will also be visiting a large commercial mill so that they can see the contrast. They also let us know that interest rates in Costa Rica have been rising. If you’re not familiar with how farmers finance themselves, at the beginning of the year they take a loan that will pay for fertilizer inputs, harvesting labor, and the cost of running the mill. For a farm the size of Las Lajas this loan adds up to around $100,000 dollars per year, this year the interest rate that they will be paying for that loan will be 20%! That means that it actually only costs them around $80,000 to grow and ship the coffee but they have to pay the bank $20,000...this is the struggle of a coffee farmer.
When I return we will be brainstorming on ways that Dillanos might be able to help them receive a more reasonable interest rate.Following the Las Lajas meeting we had a chance to sit down with Ramon the Managing Director and Jesus the President of the Rio Azul Cooperative in Guatemala. It was great to see them again, it has been nearly two years since I was able to meet face to face with them as visa issues kept them from attending last years Let’s Talk Coffee.
Their cooperative is still utilizing the original medical grant that we extended them, apparently they are either a very healthy group of people or they are being very conservative with how they use the funds. Most likely I will be making a trip to see them next year in an effort to meet with a large group of grower members to maintain the relationship. We will also be looking into how we can develop more effective fertilizer processes with them as this is the major obstacle that is preventing them from transitioning more of their coffee to organic.
Once again Let’s Talk Coffee was a huge success and continues to be a breeding ground for innovative ideas that will continue to keep our company competitive in an ever changing industry.
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